Well Pumps
Well Pump Not Working? Here's What to Check First
No water pressure or no water at all — when you're on a private well, this is genuinely disruptive. Before anyone rolls a truck, there are a few things worth checking yourself. Some well pump problems have simple, inexpensive explanations. Others don't. This guide helps you figure out which situation you're in.
Understanding the System
How a Private Well System Works
Before diving into diagnostics, it helps to understand the four main components of a typical private well system. Knowing how they interact tells you a lot about where problems originate.
The Submersible Pump
Most residential wells built in the last 40 years use a submersible pump — a sealed electric motor and pump unit that sits at the bottom of the well casing, submerged in water. When the pressure switch signals that system pressure has dropped below the cut-in point, the pump activates, draws water from the aquifer, and pushes it up the drop pipe to the pressure tank.
Submersible pumps typically last 10–25 years depending on water quality, usage, and whether the well ever runs dry. They operate in a harsh environment — constant moisture, varying minerals, and electrical demands. When they fail, pulling and replacing one is not a simple job. It requires the right equipment and experience to avoid damaging the drop pipe, electrical cable, or well casing.
The Pressure Tank
The pressure tank — usually a large cylindrical tank in your basement, utility room, or pump house — serves two purposes. It stores a reserve of pressurized water so the pump doesn't cycle on and off for every small draw (like someone turning on a faucet for 10 seconds). And it helps maintain consistent pressure throughout the home's plumbing.
Inside the tank is a rubber bladder or diaphragm that separates a small air charge from the water. When the bladder fails, the tank becomes "waterlogged" — full of water with no air cushion. This causes the pump to cycle on and off rapidly with each water draw, which is hard on the pump motor and will shorten its life considerably.
The Pressure Switch
The pressure switch is a small but critical component — typically a fist-sized box mounted on the pipe near the pressure tank. It monitors system pressure and controls when the pump turns on (cut-in pressure, typically around 30–40 PSI) and off (cut-out pressure, typically 50–60 PSI). When pressure drops to the cut-in point — from household water use — the switch closes and the pump runs. When pressure reaches the cut-out point, the switch opens and the pump stops.
Pressure switches can fail mechanically, can have contacts that corrode or burn, and can lose calibration over time. A failing pressure switch is a surprisingly common cause of "no water" calls that turn out to have a simple fix.
The Drop Pipe and Check Valve
The drop pipe connects the pump to the surface plumbing, running down the inside of the well casing alongside the pump's electrical cable. A check valve — either built into the pump or installed in the drop pipe — prevents water from flowing back down the well when the pump isn't running. A failed check valve causes the system to lose pressure whenever the pump stops, which means the pump has to build pressure back up from zero every time it starts — stressing the motor and causing pressure fluctuations at fixtures.
Step-by-Step
What to Check Before Calling a Plumber
Go through these in order. They cover the most common, easily-checked causes of well system problems — from simplest to more involved.
Check the Breaker Panel
Find the breaker labeled for the well pump, well system, or pressure pump. If it's tripped (in the middle position), reset it — flip it fully off, then back on. If the breaker holds and water returns, you may have had a momentary overload. If the breaker trips again immediately or within a short time, stop. A repeatedly-tripping breaker is the pump motor telling you something is seriously wrong — either an electrical fault, a motor that's failing, or a pump that's seized. Don't keep resetting it.
Check the Pressure Switch
With the power on, look at the pressure switch box (near the pressure tank). Some switches have a small reset button — usually a lever or button labeled "reset." If the switch has tripped, you can try resetting it once. If it trips again, or if you hear the pump running but pressure still won't build, the issue is beyond the switch itself. Note: if the switch contacts look burned, discolored, or you hear unusual clicking, that switch likely needs replacement regardless of what else is happening.
Test the Pressure Tank
With the pump off, tap the tank with your knuckles from bottom to top. You should hear a dull thud in the lower portion (water) and a hollow sound in the upper portion (air charge). If the tank sounds hollow from top to bottom — entirely empty — or dull and full from top to bottom — entirely waterlogged — the bladder has failed. A waterlogged tank isn't causing your water loss by itself, but it will cause the pump to short-cycle, which accelerates pump failure. It needs attention.
Check for Leaks in Accessible Areas
Inspect the area around the pressure tank, pressure switch, and any visible pipes for moisture, drips, or corrosion. Check the water lines running to and from the tank. A significant leak can drop pressure faster than the pump can maintain it, giving you symptoms that look like pump failure when the actual problem is somewhere in the distribution system.
Check Other Water Sources on the Property
Turn on an outdoor spigot or a different fixture than the one you noticed the problem at. If some fixtures have pressure and others don't, the issue may be a partially-blocked pipe or a localized problem rather than a full system failure. If no fixture on the property has water or pressure, the problem is upstream of all of them — likely the pump, pressure switch, or pressure tank.
Reading the Signs
What Each Symptom Usually Means
Well system problems show up in a few distinct patterns. Here's how to interpret what you're seeing.
No Water At All — Nothing When You Turn on the Tap
Most likely causes: tripped or failed breaker, failed pressure switch, burned pump motor, or a broken drop pipe. This is the most urgent scenario. Check the breaker first (Step 1 above). If the breaker is fine, you need a professional. Don't run multiple fixtures trying to draw water — if the well is low or the pump has failed, running things dry can cause further damage.
Low Pressure — Water Comes Out But Weakly
Common causes: failing pump (reduced output), waterlogged pressure tank (bladder failure), pressure switch set too low, a partially-blocked check valve, or scale buildup in the pipes. If the pressure used to be fine and has gradually decreased over months, a failing pump is more likely. If it's been inconsistent from day one, the pressure switch settings or tank sizing may be the issue.
Short Cycling — Pump Turns On and Off Every Few Seconds
This almost always means a failed pressure tank bladder (waterlogged tank). The tank has lost its air cushion, so there's no buffer between pressure switch activations. Every small water draw drops pressure below the cut-in point, the pump fires, pressure builds instantly to cut-out, pump stops — and repeats immediately when you're still running water. This is hard on the pump motor and needs to be addressed. A pressure tank replacement is usually a straightforward job. If left unattended, short cycling significantly shortens pump life.
Pump Runs Constantly — Never Turns Off
If the pump is running continuously without reaching cut-out pressure, it could mean the pump is undersized for demand, the well yield is limited and the pump is drawing it down, there's a significant leak somewhere in the system, or the pump is worn and can no longer produce its rated pressure. A continuously-running pump will overheat and fail faster than one that cycles normally. This needs investigation promptly.
Sputtering Water — Air in the Lines
If water comes out with air and spurts rather than flowing steadily, air is entering the system somewhere. Possible causes include a failed check valve (air being drawn back into the line when the pump stops), the well water level dropping below the pump intake (well running low), or a crack in the drop pipe. Sputtering that happens primarily after the pump has been off for a while points toward a check valve issue. Sputtering that happens consistently may indicate low well yield.
Know the Limits
What's Safe to DIY — and What Isn't
We're straightforward about this: some well system tasks are within reach for a handy homeowner. Others genuinely aren't — not because we're trying to protect a service call, but because the consequences of doing them wrong are expensive and potentially serious.
Generally Reasonable to DIY
- Resetting a tripped breaker (once)
- Resetting a pressure switch reset button (once)
- Checking for visible leaks in the utility area
- Tapping the pressure tank to assess waterlogging
- Checking the air charge on a pressure tank (requires a tire gauge, done with pump off)
- Replacing a pressure switch (if you're comfortable with basic electrical work and the pump is off)
Call a Professional For These
- Pulling or replacing a submersible pump — requires specialized equipment, and improper pulling can damage the drop pipe, cable, or well casing
- Any work inside the well casing
- Diagnosing a pump that's running but not producing adequate pressure (requires flow testing)
- Replacing a pressure tank (involves draining the system, working with pressurized components)
- Any situation where the breaker keeps tripping
- Suspected low well yield or well contamination
Our well pump service team handles all of the above. We typically diagnose a well system problem on the first visit and can usually tell you on-site whether the pump needs to be pulled or whether there's a simpler fix. We give you both pieces of information: what's wrong, and what it'll cost to address it.
What to Expect
What Happens on a Well Pump Service Call?
If the self-diagnostic steps don't resolve the issue — or if you've determined the problem is beyond what's reasonable to tackle yourself — here's what a professional service call typically looks like:
Initial Assessment
We check system pressure, listen to how the pump is cycling, inspect the pressure tank, pressure switch, and visible electrical connections. Often this tells us a lot before we even begin testing.
Electrical Testing
We test voltage at the pump, current draw at the motor (amperage), and continuity in the pump cable. These readings tell us whether the motor is functional, drawing too much current (indicative of a failing motor or seized pump), or has an open circuit (wire break or motor failure).
Flow Testing
We check how much water the system is actually producing and whether it meets the pump's rated output. Low flow with good electrical readings often points to worn impellers inside the pump, which reduce pumping efficiency over time.
Honest Options
We tell you what we found and what the realistic options are. If the pump needs to come out, we explain what that involves, the cost, and what we'll find when we pull it. If there's a simpler fix — pressure switch, pressure tank, check valve — we'll say that too. We won't pull a pump unnecessarily.
What to Budget
What Do Well Pump Repairs and Replacements Typically Cost?
Cost varies considerably based on what's actually wrong, the depth of the well, and the type of system. Here are the general ranges we see — but these are starting points, not quotes. An accurate number requires a site visit.
Pressure Tank Replacement
Typically one of the less expensive repairs. The tank itself is a standard part available from supply houses; labor is manageable. Resolves short-cycling and pressure inconsistency when the bladder has failed.
Pressure Switch Replacement
A pressure switch is an inexpensive part. If it's the only problem, the cost of the service call and part replacement is modest. This is often the first thing checked and replaced when the pump appears to be running but system behavior is erratic.
Submersible Pump Replacement
This is the more involved repair. Pulling a pump from a well requires specialized equipment and care. Cost scales with well depth — a pump at 100 feet is different from one at 300 feet. The pump unit itself varies in cost based on horsepower and flow rate requirements. Expect this to be a full-day job.
Check Valve or Drop Pipe Repair
Addressing a failed check valve or a cracked drop pipe requires pulling the pump to access these components. Cost is similar to a pump pull even if the pump itself is being left in place — the labor for pulling is the same.
For context: in our experience, a pump problem that's caught at the pressure tank or pressure switch stage typically costs much less than one that's been left until the motor burns out. The short-cycling from a waterlogged tank that's been ignored for a year can shorten pump life significantly — turning what would have been a tank replacement into a pump replacement plus tank replacement. It's worth addressing symptoms early.
Staying Ahead of It
How to Avoid Well Pump Failures
No pump lasts forever, but there are things that genuinely extend their life:
- Address short cycling immediately. A waterlogged pressure tank is inexpensive to fix. The pump damage from running it through thousands of short-cycle events is not.
- Don't run the well dry. If you're doing a lot of irrigation or have high household demand in summer, monitor well recovery. Dry-running a submersible pump overheats the motor — it relies on the surrounding water for cooling.
- Test your water annually. Private well owners in Larimer County are responsible for their own water quality. Annual testing tells you about bacterial contamination, mineral content changes, and other water quality shifts that can affect both your health and your plumbing. Changes in water quality can also signal changes in well casing integrity.
- Know where your wellhead is. Keep the area around the wellhead clear, make sure the cap is intact, and ensure the area doesn't collect standing water. Surface contamination entering the well is a real risk if the casing seal is compromised.
- Keep service records. Knowing when your pump was installed, what HP and flow rate it's rated for, and when it was last serviced helps any contractor diagnose problems faster and make more accurate recommendations.
We work with a lot of well-dependent properties in Fort Collins, Laporte, Red Feather Lakes, Wellington, and the broader rural areas of Northern Colorado. If you're not sure about the condition of your well system, a diagnostic call is a reasonable investment — we can give you a clear picture of where things stand.
Common Questions
Frequently Asked Questions About Well Pump Problems
Reset it once. If it holds, monitor the system to see if the problem was a momentary overload. If the breaker trips again — especially quickly — stop resetting it. A repeatedly-tripping breaker means the motor is drawing too much current, which can indicate a failing motor, a seized pump, or an electrical fault. Continued resets with an underlying problem can damage the motor further or create a fire risk.
Typically 10–25 years, with a lot of variation based on water quality, usage, and whether the pump has experienced stress events like running dry or prolonged short cycling. Hard water with high mineral content can accelerate wear on pump impellers. Pumps that have been run dry even briefly often show shortened lifespans. In our experience, pumps in Northern Colorado rural areas with relatively clean water and moderate usage often reach 15–20 years without issue.
Short cycling means the pump is turning on and off very rapidly — sometimes every few seconds — rather than running for a normal cycle of 1–2 minutes. It almost always indicates a waterlogged pressure tank. The problem is that pump motors take a surge of electricity every time they start, generate heat, and experience mechanical stress. Hundreds or thousands of these rapid start-stop events per day dramatically shorten motor life. A pressure tank bladder replacement is typically the fix.
Technically yes, but we don't recommend it unless you have specific experience with well systems. Pulling a submersible pump requires safely securing and lowering significant weight, managing the pump cable without kinking or breaking it, and ensuring the new pump, drop pipe, and connections are properly sealed before it goes back down. Mistakes at any step can result in equipment dropping into the well, a damaged cable that creates electrical hazards, or contamination of the well. The well is a long-term asset — it's worth protecting.
A pump that's running but not building pressure usually points to one of three things: a failed check valve (water flows back down as fast as the pump pushes it up), a broken or disconnected drop pipe (pump is running but disconnected from the surface plumbing), or severely worn pump impellers that can no longer generate adequate pressure. All three require pulling the pump to diagnose and fix properly.
It varies considerably by location. Wells in the Front Range area can range from around 100 feet in areas with shallower aquifers to 400+ feet in areas where the water table is deeper. Mountain community wells in areas like Red Feather Lakes may be quite deep depending on local geology. Well depth matters for pump costs — pulling and replacing a pump at 400 feet is more labor-intensive and equipment-intensive than one at 150 feet.
Check the breaker first — it's the quickest possible fix. If the breaker is fine and you have no water, limit your water use as much as possible. Don't repeatedly run fixtures trying to draw water. If you have any stored water (water heater tank, fridge filter reservoir), that will get you through the night. Call us in the morning — or call now if it's a true emergency. We'd rather you call us at 7 AM than have a household without water for days.
Yes, meaningfully. Water with high iron or mineral content can accelerate corrosion on pump components and build scale on impellers, reducing efficiency over time. Sand or grit in the water is particularly hard on pumps — it acts as an abrasive on moving parts. If your water tastes different, changes color, or you notice sediment, it's worth investigating both the water quality and the pump condition. Annual water testing for well owners is a reasonable practice.
Well Pump Problem?
Talk to a Well Pump Specialist in Northern Colorado
We diagnose well pump problems on the first visit and give you a straight answer about what it'll take to fix. No upselling, no vague estimates. Call us directly and we'll tell you right away how fast we can get out there.